The preparation window that most homeowners miss
The Atlantic hurricane season officially runs June 1 through November 30. But the preparation window that actually matters is March through May — before the season starts.
Here's what happens when you wait: a named storm forms, your area is in the cone, and you call a roofer to fix that loose flashing you noticed last fall. Every licensed roofing contractor within 150 miles has the same calls coming in simultaneously. You'll get a voicemail. The storm will arrive first.
Contractors who aren't overwhelmed with storm response are available, unhurried, and more likely to do thorough pre-season work between February and May. Material availability is better. Scheduling is easier. And any repairs completed before June 1 protect you through the entire season.
Pre-season documentation turns storm damage into a provable insurance claim
A pre-season inspection with a licensed contractor's written report establishes the exact condition of your roof before any storm. When a hurricane damages it, you have a dated professional baseline proving the damage is storm-caused — not pre-existing wear. On roofs 10+ years old, this documentation is the difference between a replacement claim and an adjuster attributing everything to age and normal wear.
The annual inspection — what to check and document
This is the work to do every year before hurricane season. It takes a professional contractor about 90 minutes and costs nothing with a free inspection.
Professional inspection + documentation
- Licensed roof inspection — written reportNot a contractor doing a quick look. A written, dated scope covering shingles, flashing, decking, ridge, eaves, and penetrations. This document is your pre-storm baseline for insurance purposes.
- Photograph the entire roof from ground levelAll four sides, dated. Wide shots showing the full roofline plus close-ups of any areas of concern. Store in cloud backup — phones get lost in evacuations.
- Photograph the attic interiorUnderside of roof deck, rafters, any insulation — looking for existing water staining, soft spots, or daylight. This is the interior baseline that proves post-storm intrusion is new.
- Check shingles for granule loss, cracking, curling tabsPay attention to south and west-facing slopes — most direct sun exposure ages those fastest. Brittle shingles won't survive 100+ mph winds.
- Inspect all flashing — chimney, vents, valleys, skylightsLifted, cracked, or separated flashing is the #1 entry point for wind-driven rain. Any gap here is a storm claim waiting to happen.
- Check ridge cap conditionRidge cap shingles take the most wind stress of any roof component. Loose or missing ridge cap is a priority repair before hurricane season.
- Inspect drip edge and fasciaBent, missing, or separated drip edge lets wind get under the shingles at the eave. Common on older homes and easy to miss.
- Check all roof penetrations — pipe boots, vent caps, satellite dishesEvery penetration through the roof deck is a potential breach point. Cracked pipe boot collars are one of the most commonly missed leak sources.
Maintenance and repairs — while contractors are still available
Address every finding from the inspection
- Fix any lifted or unsealed shingle tabsRoofing cement or hand-sealing lifts the cost from $200 to potentially your entire roof if left through a Category 3. This is the highest-ROI maintenance item on any asphalt roof.
- Replace or reseal all flashing showing separation or rustFlashing failure during wind-driven rain causes interior water damage that goes far beyond the roof repair cost. Address before season.
- Replace any missing or damaged ridge cap shingles
- Clear all gutters and downspouts completelyRun water from a hose to confirm flow to downspouts. Clogged gutters add weight and back water up under the drip edge. Clear before the first named storm.
- Confirm downspout extensions direct water away from foundation
- Trim all tree branches within 10 feet of the rooflineThe single most common cause of roof punctures in a hurricane is not wind — it's debris from your own trees. 10-foot clearance is the minimum. Hire an arborist for anything large.
- Replace any cracked or missing pipe boot collars
- Check attic ventilation — clear any blocked soffit ventsBlocked ventilation traps heat and moisture, accelerating shingle aging and raising your cooling costs. Easy to check, easy to clear.
- Stage your emergency supplies: tarps, roofing cement, utility knife, staple gunA 20×30 ft polyethylene tarp, some 1×4 boards to secure it, and basic tools. If your roof is breached at 2am during a storm, these let you limit water intrusion until a contractor can respond.
Verify your coverage before the season — not after a loss
This takes 30 minutes and a phone call. Do it every May before June 1.
📄 Pull your declarations page
Confirm: Is your roof covered at replacement cost (RCV) or actual cash value (ACV)? If ACV, how old is your roof and what would the depreciated payout actually be? On a 15-year roof with ACV, a $20,000 replacement claim might net $3,000. Know this before the storm, not after.
🌀 Know your hurricane deductible
Your hurricane deductible is almost certainly different from your standard deductible — typically 2–5% of insured value. On a $350,000 home that's $7,000–$17,500 you pay before insurance covers anything. Know your number. Have a plan for it.
🏗️ Check ordinance and law coverage
If a storm damages your roof and code requires upgrades — sealed deck, enhanced nailing, impact-rated materials — that additional cost is only covered if you have ordinance and law coverage. Many policies carry 25% limits. Check yours now and ask your agent if it's sufficient.
💧 Confirm flood coverage is separate
Your homeowner policy does not cover flood. Storm surge is flood. If you're in a coastal flood zone and you don't have a separate NFIP or private flood policy, you have no coverage for the damage that kills most coastal homes in a major hurricane. Verify this every year.
📸 Pre-storm documentation on file
Store your pre-season inspection report, dated photos, and insurance declarations page in cloud storage accessible from anywhere. Not on your home computer. Not in a filing cabinet. If you evacuate without it, you still need it to file your claim.
📞 Save your insurer's claims number
Not your agent's number — the 24/7 claims line. Find it on your declarations page or insurer's website and save it in your phone now. You will be calling it at an inconvenient time, possibly without internet access. Have it in your contacts before the season starts.
When a storm is coming — 72 hours to landfall
At this point contractors are unavailable and lumber yards are sold out. Everything on this list should already be done. But if it isn't, these are the last-ditch actions you can still take yourself.
Last preparation steps
- Bring in or secure all outdoor furniture, decorations, grills, and plantersAnything not bolted down becomes a projectile at 100+ mph. A lightweight chair through a window creates a breach. This is not optional.
- Clear gutters of any debris accumulated since spring cleaning
- Take a final photo walk-around of your home exteriorDate-stamped photos of the pre-storm condition are your evidence baseline if the storm damages the property. Takes 10 minutes. Do it.
- Locate your emergency tarp and toolsKnow where they are before the power goes out. Staging them in the garage or a ground-floor closet saves critical time after the storm passes.
- Confirm your evacuation route and destination
First 48 hours — safety before inspection
- Do not go on the roof under any circumstancesA storm-damaged roof has unknown structural integrity. Wet shingles are as slippery as ice. Use the IOU inspection method (Inside, Outside, Up the ladder at eaves only) covered in the inspection guide.
- Document all visible damage with dated photos before cleanupDo not clean up anything before photographing. Your insurance claim depends on the documented pre-repair condition.
- Apply emergency tarp if there is an active breachYou are legally required to prevent further damage. Tarp costs are typically reimbursable as mitigation expenses. Keep all receipts.
- Call your insurer's claims line within 24–72 hoursFlorida requires prompt notice. Most states expect contact within 24–72 hours of discovering damage. File even if you're not sure of the full scope — you can file a supplemental claim later.
- Request a free professional inspection — schedule before the backlog buildsAfter a major storm, licensed roofers' schedules fill within 48–72 hours. Request immediately so you're in the queue.
If your home was built before 2004 — extra steps apply
Homes built before Florida's post-Andrew building code reforms (2001–2004) were not constructed to current wind resistance standards. Older construction uses different fastener patterns, less robust deck attachment, and materials that weren't designed for sustained Category 3+ winds.
If your home was built before 2004, your pre-season inspection should specifically include a wind mitigation inspection — a formal assessment using Florida's OIR-B1-1802 form that evaluates roof deck attachment, roof-to-wall connections, roof covering type, and opening protection. This inspection typically costs $75–$150, is valid for 5 years, and can qualify your home for 25–45% reductions on the wind portion of your insurance premium.
For older Gulf Coast and Atlantic coast homes, the premium savings from a wind mitigation inspection almost always pay for the inspection cost in the first month of reduced premiums — and continue every year permanently.
Wind mitigation inspections — full guide
What inspectors evaluate, how much you can save, the FORTIFIED program, and why you should always get re-inspected after a new roof. Read the full wind mitigation guide →